Image: Zigres / shutterstock.com
Price dictates instead of free trade
Exclusive bags, fine fashion - and some serious repercussions in Brussels. As Der Spiegel reported on 14.10.2025, the Trademarks Gucci, Chloé and Loewe have been pilloried by the EU Commission. The accusation: too much control over prices and discounts. The companies are said to have systematically prevented retailers and online stores from deciding on the sales price of their products themselves. The result: less competition - and more expensive products for customers.
The EU did not fail to react: The three fashion houses have to pay a total fine of over 150 million euros. Gucci will pay the lion's share of around 120 million euros. Chloé will pay almost 20 million and Loewe just under 18 million. The sums have already been reduced - because all three companies cooperated with the investigations.
Discounts prohibited, sales start strictly regulated
For years, the luxury labels apparently made it clear how, when and at what price their products could be sold. Discount campaigns? Completely prohibited in some cases. Sales outside the approved periods? Also taboo. And not just clothing, but also shoes, jewelry and handbags.
Even though the three companies acted independently of each other, the principle was similar: retailers had hardly any leeway - price control lay with the Trademarks themselves. According to the EU Commission, this distorted the market and harmed consumers.
The investigations revealed that Gucci and Loewe had been using this practice since 2015, while Chloé joined in in 2019. The behavior was only stopped after the commission unexpectedly appeared at the company headquarters in 2023.
Luxury group remains silent - and pays
The fashion houses affected expressed themselves soberly. Gucci's parent company, Kering, stated that it had "taken note" of the decision from Brussels - and had already put money aside. LVMH, the group behind Loewe, also tacitly accepted the fine. Insight or remorse? Not at all.
Critical commentary
When Trademarks such as Gucci, Loewe and Chloé dictate to retailers how much their products can cost - and even prohibit discounts - it no longer has anything to do with a free market. What sounds like "brand management" is actually price control through the back door.
The fact that this practice went unnoticed for years shows how little transparency there is behind the glitter of the luxury world. The fine from Brussels is therefore right - but it comes late. For many consumers, the realization probably only came at the checkout. The following should apply: If you charge premium prices, you have to play by the rules.
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